Sure, it's winter, and it's cold outside. If you have to drive somewhere and your car has been sitting outside, your car is going to be cold. But idling your car to warm it up isn't doing that much.
Driving the car heats the engine more quickly than simple idling, and will get the system heated up more quickly. Even in very cold weather, only a few seconds of idling is needed to get the car ready to drive. Running the engine to drive the car will warm up the heater faster, as well as getting you to your destination more quickly so that the engine has to run for a shorter length of time.
Idling also burns fuel less efficiently than when the engine is under load. Letting the engine idle to warm it up means that in addition to the carbon dioxide being emitted from the tailpipe, there will be more incompletely burned compounds going into the air. Engine idling puts more volatile organic compounds (VOCs), nitrogen oxides, sulfur dioxide, benzene and other pollutants into the atmosphere. And, in winter conditions, emissions from idling vehicles are more than double the normal level immediately after a cold start.
As the CarTalk guys say, "The fact is, cars these days don't need to be warmed up. Except in below-zero conditions, you can just start the engine and drive off."
Yet another hat tip to John Beeson!

written by Charlie Roy, January 09, 2011
written by MickR, January 09, 2011
The "expert" who claims a car can just be started and driven off immediately is either a fool or trying to make people buy new cars sooner.
written by Jay K, January 09, 2011
written by landoncube, January 09, 2011
written by kent c, January 09, 2011
written by Doc Rings, January 09, 2011
She had a pan warmer, so they recommended no idling required to "warm up" her car, specifically.
They DID say that if it is below zero farenheit, with no block heater, to idle a couple minutes at most, and then SLOWLY drive away, keeping the RPM below 2000 until it heats up. No jack-rabbit starts with the block stone cold when it's below zero.
I will add that using 5w-30 *full-synthetic* will REALLY help with oil fluidity to motor bearing at at low temps.
written by Joel, January 09, 2011
written by JimW, January 09, 2011
If you use the right grade of oil I really don't ever see that. Unless of course it's below zero like the article said. Don't believe me though, educate yourself. This is a good place to start.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
written by MickR, January 10, 2011
written by Miller, January 10, 2011
written by Ben, January 10, 2011
you can do that, but the problem is wear and tear on your piston rings; going from one extreme to the other causes the pistons rings to flex and melt down. once that happens, the oil coolant and the motor oil mix causing a mini, repetitive fire on the wrong side of the pistons, and then you score the head gasket and the engine head. replacing this on any car usually costs the low end of $2500 you might spend that over the course of the 8 years of just getting in and driving, but i would think that paying over time is better than paying all at once and not having a car for 1-3 weeks.
Can you address this specifically?
written by Mike, January 11, 2011
written by Djarada, January 18, 2011
written by Aud, January 18, 2011
written by Sandy, January 24, 2011
So the "10 second rule" makes sense, even "in traffic", when it comes to extended waiting for the light to change!
I know some of those stoplights here in Missouls, MT, and shut the engine off when I arrive shortly after a light change!
( I also AM from Germany, and drive a SMART car...)
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